The famous Nusa Dua reefs, aka Geger, had been on my radar for many years prior to this trip. Itโs a large offshore reef that receives an abundance of swell from the Lombok Strait that can be surfed from two feet up to twenty feet. Like Uluwatu, on the west coast, Nusa Dua almost always has waves somewhere along its immense reef.
Over the past few years, we have deliberately stayed at Nusa Dua, for the opportunity to conquer it. Iโve surfed a couple of spots nearby such as Nikko and Sri Lanka but up until now the famous Nusa Dua reefs had always eluded me.
This reef is not for the faint hearted. There are extremely strong currents constantly trying to sweep you out to sea or into the impact zone. There are huge, sneaky cleanup sets that can hold you under water for a long time – not to mention the sharp coral heads below, waiting for that moment you make a mistake. On top of that, you have a ton of sea urchins in between the cracks and holes in the reef.
Donโt be fooled out here, a mistake can be deadly, especially when it starts pulsing overhead. Still, with risk, comes reward and this would be the trip I finally got to surf Nusa Dua reef.
There are plenty of waves you can surf along this reef, each with its own unique personality. The first is Temple lefts. This is the easiest of the options and breaks best on a low to mid tide. A somewhat easy paddle out and, although it can get solid, is a softer wave compared to its counterparts. However, be aware, above six feet, it transforms into a much more intimidating wave and the paddle back in against the current can become brutal.

This is looking South toward Nikki where you can paddle out to Temple Lefts. You can see the current in full force even on this smaller day.
Further along from Temple Lefts is a right hander known as Elevators. Itโs a very fast slab of a wave with a sketchy take off where the bottom drops away extremely fast creating a high probability of freefalling onto the reef and copping the lip on your head. Although nearly always a wave here, you really need to be on your game to attempt it. Not many do.
Next in line is The Keyhole. Keyhole is a right and left hand peak. The left offers a super step take off followed by very hollow section. A short wave that delivers very intense barrels. The right, on the other hand, is a brutal, colossal slab that is best left to the truly insane.

The Keyhole on fire but lots of surfers getting caught inside. This was on our last day at Nusa Dua. I had surfed Mengiat that morning but we were heading to Keramas so unfortunately didnโt get to surf it. However, arriving at Keramas that afternoon I was welcomed by pumping waves there.
The next peak is considered to be the most dangerous wave in Bali and the one that holds the biggest swell due to the deep channel outside of the Lombok Strait. It has reportedly been surfed up to twenty feet. When people talk about, Nusa Dua or Geger, this is what they are generally referring to.
Known as Main Peak, itโs a serious right hander that can deliver both the best wave of your life or the worst flogging youโve ever taken. The currents are incredibly strong that have you paddling constantly to stay in position. Itโs a long way from shore and definitely for the more experienced surfers. Itโs a wave Iโve had my eyes on for years but up to now, I havenโt been lucky enough to get the right opportunity to surf it.
Chickens sits on the inside of Main Peak. Donโt let the name fool you. This right hander can also get serious and on its day offer over 200 metre rides. You can see Main Peak from Chickens and itโs just a short paddle out but the energy of the wave drops down a notch making it a slightly less consequential option though it can still be unforgiving at times. There are also several take off points along the reef which helps it handle a crowd. Chickens is the second Nusa Dua Reef that has been on my surf radar.
On this particular day, all the elements finally seemed to be lining up to surf this reef that has eluded me for so many years. The swell was there, the morning tide was perfect and the winds were forecast to be light.
Still, it was a spot I had yet to surf and the fact it is such a large scale reef with a lot of risks, this trip I met up with my Balinese friend, Putu, who came out to surf with me to help get things dialled in.
What weighed on my mind was that just two days earlier, a surfer had been dragged out to sea by the currents from this very reef. He was eventually picked up by a fishing boat the next day! The next day! He was in the water for over twenty hours. He had drifted from Nusa Dua, up past Keramas, to Lebih. We are talking thirty to forty kilometres of coastline! The risk here is very real!
As we arrived on the beach, we instantly saw a huge set breaking way out at the Main Peak. It looked solid from the shore so there was no doubt there was some serious size way out there!
The nerves kicked in straight away. It was obvious we werenโt going to surf main peak but the inside reef, Chickens, which we felt would be more approachable. The biggest concern was the wind. It was a stormy day and the winds at this stage werenโt being too kind to us.
Nevertheless, we waxed up and started getting ready. Then, out of nowhere, a dark menacing cloud rolled overhead and unleashed heavy rain. Lightning lit up the sky. We jumped back in the car and decided to wait it out.
It would have only been ten minutes before the storm began to move out to sea. The skies opened and the sun came burning down. Even better was that the wind swung completely offshore, creating perfect conditions. It was go time!
We jumped onto the boat that would take us out to the lineup, following the storm that had just hit us as it was moving out to sea. I heard thunder louder and longer than Iโve ever heard in my life.
We passed the inside section of the reef where a few smaller waves were breaking and continued heading out further. The further along the reef we travelled, the more intense my nerves got.
We arrived at a spot about halfway out to Main Peak where three other surfers were already in the water and decided to disembark there. Conditions were perfect. The wind had backed right off, leaving a pure glass surface on the water. The wonderment in my head was, how big actually are the waves! Putu turned to me and said, from here, if you want bigger waves, just paddle further up the reef and you will find.
The good thing about surfing Chickens is that as it is a lot further in than Main Peak, the currents usually pull you in, as opposed to dragging you out to sea. That said, if you go beyond a certain point up the reef, the currents can change and actually pull you out to sea. This is the major danger of surfing Nusa Dua.
Just as we were about to jump off the boat, the captain called out โHati-Hati (be careful) out here. The current is different today, pulling out to sea. Itโs berbahaya (dangerous)โ! Not exactly what we wanted to hear jumping off the boat!
I asked the captain could he wait while we surfed but he said was too risky. Instead, he told us to just wave him down as he would be back and forth dropping off and picking up other surfers. To be honest, he didnโt sound too convincing. Nevertheless, we were off.
We paddled over to what we thought would be a good take off spot. It was hard to position as the lineup was sectioning at different spots along the reef. We were also a long way from shore which made it hard to pick a reliable landmark. Putu decided to paddle further up the reef while I stayed put, at least until I caught a couple of waves to dial in the conditions. Over the next hour or two we both managed to get some decent waves. It was far from perfect, I found myself dodging some rogue sets and paddling constantly just to hold position, but it was still lots of fun and I was finally surfing Nusa Dua reef.
I caught one wave that ended up being the best and longest of the session. It seemed to go so far that I found myself in a random section of the reef with waves breaking on it. A long way from the original take off spot.
I spent the next twenty minutes, or so, paddling nonstop trying to get back out. It felt like the ocean had other plans. It wasnโt the waves that were holding me back, it was the current. I paddled and paddled and paddled getting nowhere, eventually starting to lose ground.
The one positive was that the current seemed to be taking me in, not out! I was being dragged at a ninety degree angle towards the beach and figured, that eventually I will end up on the beach somewhere.
In the end, I surrendered and let the current take me. There is also another inside reef, closer to the beach, called Mengiat and I was headed for there from what I could tell. Sidenote, I surfed Mengiat a couple of days later at two to three foot and it was awesome. A short paddle from the beach offering up a perfect A-frame peak. Further north along the beach is Black Stone which I also surfed. It was smaller but can also offer up some perfect waves. There are so many options along this stretch of Nusa Dua.
Anyway, I decided to try and gun it straight back to the beach, rather than get dragged across to the inside reef. The currents were some of the strongest Iโve ever experienced in Bali. I was completely exhausted, but eventually I made it in.
I turned and looked back out toward the lineup at Chickens and was in disbelief how far it was away. I couldnโt even see the surfers anymore as it was such a distance away.
The next thing that entered my mind was that Putu must be wondering where the hell Iโd gone! I figured my best option was to walk along the beach to where the boat goes out and hop on to head back out to the line up to wave him down. As I trekked along the beach, I noticed the captain was coming in. As exhausted as I was, I started running to catch him before he headed back out. As I got closer, I saw that Putu was actually on the boat and he saw me too. We were reunited. He told me he had lost sight of me and had asked the boat captain if heโd seen me. When no one had, he assumed I must have paddled in. He had been quite concerned for me.
So, there you have it. My virgin surf at Nusa Dua reef. It didnโt go quite to plan but I still managed to score a few good waves. I also now have a better understanding on the reef, the currents, the takeoff zones and the ideal conditions suited to really scoring this reef. I will be back with a vengeance next year.

โSomewhereโ along the wide stretch that is Nusa Dua reef.

The Keyhole at Nusa Dua.

Pandawa is a short distance from Nusa Dua where you can find some great waves. When Nusa Dua reef is small, this is a great go to spot. The reef is open to any available swell and there are a few different options depending on the wind and swell direction.

Checking out options around Pandawa.


Great story Mike