First Light, Last Light – Keramas, March 2026

Every surfer has experienced the magic of a ‘Dawn Patrol’ at one stage in their life. Paddling out before sunrise when the conditions are perfect and often with the least number of surfers out. Then there are the ‘Sunset Sessions’ where you surf the last few waves of the day as the light fades into night. This particular day at Keramas, I experienced both these scoring two awesome sessions in a single day.

Keramas, like many spots in Bali, is affected tremendously by the tides. An hour or two either side of low tide, it’s barely surfable. It is just too shallow for any available swell to break. As luck would have it, during the days we were there, the right amount of tide fell perfectly allowing sessions at both sunrise and sunset. These windows are typically the best times to surf Keramas in the wet season, when the winds are light offshore or non-existent creating ideal conditions.

Heading out at sunrise.

On a couple of mornings, I paddled out at sunrise but on this particular day I wanted to be the first one out. Sunrise was around 6.30am with first light just around 6. I decided to paddle out at 5.45am, in the dark, so I’d be ready to catch the first waves of the day.

I stood on the beach, in the darkness, with not a sole around ready to go. No rush, no pressure, no crowds, no noise, just the sound of the ocean coupled with the smell of salt and volcanic sand.

As I paddled out, it was so dark I couldn’t even see the waves until they crashed on the reef and the whitewater appeared. The first couple of waves I caught were purely on instinct, though, even at half light, you could still sense the unmistakable perfect shape that is Keramas.

The low tide had come and gone but the reef still needed a little more water on it. Each passing set provided just that and the waves got better as they rolled through. It was such an amazing feeling being the first one out at first light, completely alone in the water. The only thing on my mind was when was the next wave would arrive. 

The waves weren’t big, may be two to three feet, but they were perfect and I managed to snag a few gems under my belt before anyone else paddled out. Then the sun started to emerge over the mountains and the sea, lighting up the sky whilst casting its typical golden glow across the black volcanic sand. It was a beautiful sight.

I surfed for a couple of hours until the morning offshore winds turned and added a slight texture to the waves. From that moment on, although still plenty of surfable waves, the morning perfection had passed and I left it to the late comers to take their share. It didn’t matter to me. I’d had more than my share already.

First wave ridden of the day at first light before any signs of another surfer.

Through the rest of the day, the waves really died off as the high tide filled in flooding the reef. Still my confidence of an afternoon surf remained high. Some might say I was possibly being too hopeful. Looking at the size of the surf after lunch you’d think I was mad to expect any change by sunset.

The thing was, over the previous two days, right around sunset, the wind swiftly turned offshore and waves appeared again. The problem was that low tide fell only a couple of hours before sunset so the real question was, whether there would be enough water on the reef before darkness set in?

I was at the Komune pool on the beachfront, relaxing from around 4.00pm, keeping a close eye on the conditions waiting for that change, if it was going to happen at all. The surf was very small, the tide very low and the wind was making a mess of the dribble that was on offer. I told myself, “Another thirty minutes”. I knew, I just knew, that with a bit more water on the reef and a little time for the wind to swing offshore, the waves would turn on for what is called ‘The Golden Hour’.

This was to be my last surf before heading home the next day so I was praying to the Bali Gods for it to happen! Bali Karma had delivered so much good to me over the years so I had high confidence it would come through for me again.

After half an hour I saw everything change right before my eyes. In an instant, the wind dropped off and the water turned into a perfect glassy surface. The tide had reached that sweet spot, with the reef almost fully covered. Although the waves were still small, I had high hopes they would build as the tide came in.

I paddled out with great confidence. Another awesome thing about this afternoon was that only a handful of other ‘surfers’ were out! Unless you were there at that exact moment, you would have had no idea it was about to turn on. On top of that, all the local Balinese surfers were busy with ceremonial commitments as it was two days before Nephi Day (Silent Day).

Over the next couple of hours, right through to last light, the waves just kept getting better and better. Each set was bigger and cleaner that the last. I was getting wave after wave after wave. Not out of greed, but because there was simply no reason not to. I found myself sitting deepest, always in the ideal position as each set was approaching. All I could think was, wow, the most perfect wave is coming and I know it is all mine! That feeling doesn’t come around that often. Usually, you are jostling with other surfers to see who will get in position, wondering who will out paddle who and get the wave. On this occasion, in most cases, I was in the perfect spot with no one even close to me. A guaranteed perfect wave about to be all mine! This same scenario transpired over the whole session. I’ve also surfed Keramas a lot! I know the lineup, currents and all the positioning tricks very well. It basically feels like my home break.

I’d been surfing wave after wave for over two hours. My arms were spent, my legs felt like jelly and my shoulders were tight, but as long as there was still light, I was not going in.

I ended up being the last one out for the last couple of waves of the day. Then finally got to the point where I could barely see the sets coming. I rode my last wave, the reef disappearing into darkness behind me. I had ridden the final wave of the day and the final wave of my trip.

I’ve surfed Keramas many times over the years. I’ve surfed bigger waves here and caught better waves, but I’ve never had a session like this. It felt like I had the pick of any perfect wave I wanted. It was as though I was the only one out.

A blessed session at one of the best waves in the world. Suksma (Thank you) once again Keramas. See you again next year.

Perfect uncrowded Keramas not long before last light.

This was my final wave of the trip and the final wave surfed before darkness fell for the day.

Clean perfect conditions as the sun emerges lighting up the waves.

Sunrise sessions.

Another session done.

Recovery mode inbetween sessions.