Every surfer has been though that long painful period of time without a surf for many a different reasons. However there is nothing like the feeling after that surf when you have been waiting so long!
This time round I had been waiting around going insane for around 6 weeks. On some days there were waves but then there were also work commitments. Other good days the wind was up before I got my chance. Other days I just gave in to the cold.
It’s a funny thing. Sometimes you get lazy or in the mindset of not going surfing. Too cold, too tired, too windy, to small, too crowded, too much to do…Yet when you just get out there and go for it, you find yourself afterwards you asking yourself ‘what have I been waiting for all this time?’. This time for me it had been a bit of both. I genuinely had some commitments but other times i admit I was just plain lazy. Sometimes it comes back to the old saying, ‘If in doubt, just go out’.
It came to the weekend of my 45th birthday in 2017 and I had the whole weekend off. I didn’t even check the report until Friday when it forecasted clean offshore winds all day and 3-4ft of swell to go with. Not too mention the 35 degree day. Pumped and amped from watching the Pipe Masters the previous few days I was more that ready.
The normal restless pre insane surf sleep followed by the only decision which was where to surf. The wind was clean off and swell a mix of direction to anywhere would be pumping so I went to the closest break I could get to. At first glance I was stoked! It looked like a wave park with peaks everywhere, not many out, a clean offshore wind grooming the head high waves and the sun glistening off the water. Out there! The session was great with barrels, long waves and plenty of them. The water was pristine and it was great to be in the freedom of boardies too. But the main thing was how great the feeling was being out there in the water after such a long time. Having pumping waves was an added bonus.
Home for a quick rest and refuel, then the next session was to be at my favourite break. Sure the localism is strong and crowds can be overwhelming, but a few gems here and you’ll quickly get your stoke. When I arrived the crowds were not that bad. May be I had chosen a gap, regardless it was pumping and I was out there. Again the surf was great. Even better than my morning session and some long bowly lefts mixed with some fast hollow ones. Stoke achieved.
So there it was, two awesome surfs in one day after weeks of no waves. I honestly don’t know how much longer I could have held on without a surf. I go nuts after a week let alone six weeks!
Don’t stop what is your passion. Make time and just do it!
” Only a surfer knows the feeling”
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