Called ‘Shipwrecks’ from a wreck back in the 70’s most of the wreck had broken down over the years since. That was until a few months ago when a tug boat towing a barge ran aground causing a new wreck that was meters off destroying the whole wave. Rumors of broken tug engine, drunk or sleeping captain but we are unsure of the true how. It is an awesome wave in right conditions but can also be one of the sketchiest places to surf with strong currents and rogue set waves .
A few years ago had my worst experience here getting cleaned up by a solid 8-10 foot rogue set so already the nerves kicking in as we approached the reef. The two days prior had been too big to surf but as the swell was dropping I thought I would head out at first light to score with it being a lot less intimidating. Unfortunately I was way wrong! After days of surfing morning and afternoon my shoulders were already like jelly and my paddling power almost non existent but it wasn’t going to stop me giving it a crack.
As we approached the inside reef by boat it looked a decent size and I also noticed a lot of water moving around with the channel not looking quite like the normal channel. Whitewater breaking in it which was never the case before. Adrenaline running through me I jumped off the boat and started my paddle out to the break. Immediately I felt the power of the ocean with unusually stronger than normal currents instantly making me feel a little uncomfortable. I got out to the take off zone realising I was the only one out and within moments was been dragged in toward the barge wreck. I started paddling as hard as could to stay clear of it when all of a sudden appeared the first set! It was already breaking way out from me and peeling down the line. Hard to put a size on it but easily in the 8-10 foot plus range. I paddled even harder to try and get around it though also preparing myself to be cleaned up but thanks to the Bali gods I got wide enough to just get under the lip as it powered over me. Two more set waves were behind it but thankfully I made it over those too. Even though the set had passed, I was still getting sucked in toward the wreck so kept paddling wider and wider toward the channel only to realize the channel was a whitewater wash with insane currents ravaging it. It was at that moment I decided my next step was to get the hell out of there and back to the safety of the boat. Easier said than done!
The boat was way inside and even after plenty of hard paddling I was going nowhere while quickly losing energy. Panic had set in at this stage. I was too far out for the boat to see that I needed help and there was no way I was going to be able to paddle in to it. My next thought was to paddle further out to sea and start waving my board and pray it could come out to collect me before the currents took me away into the trenches of the Lombok Strait!
Just as I was contemplating my next actions I saw a small fishing boat racing in through the chaos back toward the beach. I yelled out to him waving frantically and just as he was passing me he happened to glance over to me. At first I think he had no intention of picking me up but to my extreme thankfulness he slowed and I had just enough time to paddle out of the impact zone to him just as another bomb set was looming over the horizon. As I was climbing onto his boat as he was shouting hurry hurry hurry and once I was halfway on he took off to avoid us getting destroyed. He took me in to my boat and I finally was safe.
I’ve surfed ‘Shipwrecks’ a ton of times over the years and have heard stories of surfers never coming in after a surf. It can be perfection at times but at other times can be a life and death experience. I’ve had some of the best sessions of my life out there but also a couple of the scariest situations of my life now. In hindsight I never should have paddled out from my boat, possibly watched for a lot longer before making the call. I think the excitement and adrenaline go the better of me this time, but hey, it’s a great story.
