Is it possible to have the perfect surf? You need to factor in size, weather, water temp, the crowd, amount of waves. I think possibly there’s different types of perfect sessions.
It was an unseasonly hot 34 degree Autumn day. It didn’t really even matter how the waves were as such a sunny glorious day so even a paddle would be most enjoyable. Knowing the surf was small I took the opportunity to take my 8ft Malibu to a spot where I knew at least was what swell there was, would be delivering some small waves.
As I did the hot sand dance over the dunes for my first glimpse of the waves I was greeted with a beautiful 2ft peak with just a zephyr of wind. The excitement factor jumped a level. I wasted no time getting in and paddled easily out through a nice little rip off the sandbank. Arriving out the back i knew I was in the perfect spot to take off. I looked to my right to see the next surfer at least 100 metres from me. I looked to my left to see the same. I was the only out here! I felt like I was up on the mid north coast of Australia not the northern beaches of Sydney! Perfect conditions & the perfect set up.
The waves were great. Not that big but great fun and every so often one or two 3ft gems rolled through. At times there was not a breath of wind and the ocean was sheet glass. The thing was every wave was breaking perfectly the same and in the same spot. In between sets you could see the perfectly shaped sandbank outside the creek mouth creating perfect rights and lefts. The waves allowed for a couple of turns and glides across the face before it would outrun you as you shot down the line. Short but oh so sweet. After I caught a wave I would paddle out to the same spot, check my landmarks and then catch the next. A couple of times I had got off the wave at the shoreline, paddled back out to arrive just in time to catch the first wave of the next set. I lost count of the number of waves I caught.
After around an hour and a half i called ‘last wave’ to myself catching a wave in. The wave took me all the way in and I stepped off onto the sand. As I stood on the shore ,in the burning sun, watching empty waves roll in, well I really had no choice and I paddled back out.
I caught my next wave within moments of getting to the take off zone. It was one of those random bigger ones around 3ft. I was in the perfect spot so just had to swing the board and paddle. A few light strokes and I was on it. I saw it sucking up and after just making the drop without nosediving I powered into a bottom turn, moved by feet up the board and drove down the line with the wave barreling over me for just a couple of sweet seconds, before letting me out. Do you think I paddled out for another..? In fact I ended up surfing for another half an hour or so before my shoulders turned to jelly and I came in.
Standing on the beach, looking back out right at that instant, an onshore breeze came up and the waves died down. I had been blessed by the last couple of hours. As I walked up to the dunes I turned not just the usual once, but three times to again take in what a ‘perfect surf’ I had.
2 foot or 10 foot the feeling you get is always awesome!
One for the memories.
Is it possible to have the perfect surf? You need to factor in size, weather, water temp, the crowd, amount of waves. I think possibly there’s different types of perfect sessions.
Today, Monday April 9th, was a hot 34 degree Autumn day. It didn’t really even matter how the waves were as such a sunny glorious day so even a paddle would be most enjoyable. Knowing the surf was small I took the opportunity to take my 8ft Malibu to a spot where I knew at least was what swell there was, would be delivering some small waves.
As I did the hot sand dance over the dunes for my first glimpse of the waves I was greeted with a beautiful 2ft peak with just a zephyr of wind. The excitement factor jumped a level. I wasted no time getting in and paddled easily out through a nice little rip off the sandbank. Arriving out the back i knew I was in the perfect spot to take off. I looked to my right to see the next surfer at least 100 metres from me. I looked to my left to see the same. I was the only out here! I felt like I was up on the mid north coast of Australia not the northern beaches of Sydney! Perfect conditions & the perfect set up.
The waves were great. Not that big but great fun and every so often one or two 3ft gems rolled through. At times there was not a breath of wind and the ocean was sheet glass. The thing was every wave was breaking perfectly the same and in the same spot. In between sets you could see the perfectly shaped sandbank outside the creek mouth creating perfect rights and lefts. The waves allowed for a couple of turns and glides across the face before it would outrun you as you shot down the line. Short but oh so sweet. After I caught a wave I would paddle out to the same spot, check my landmarks and then catch the next. A couple of times I had got off the wave at the shoreline, paddled back out to arrive just in time to catch the first wave of the next set. I lost count of the number of waves I caught.
After around an hour and a half i called ‘last wave’ to myself catching a wave in. The wave took me all the way in and I stepped off onto the sand. As I stood on the shore ,in the burning sun, watching empty waves roll in, well I really had no choice and I paddled back out.
I caught my next wave within moments of getting to the take off zone. It was one of those random bigger ones around 3ft. I was in the perfect spot so just had to swing the board and paddle. A few light strokes and I was on it. I saw it sucking up and after just making the drop without nosediving I powered into a bottom turn, moved by feet up the board and drove down the line with the wave barreling over me for just a couple of sweet seconds, before letting me out. Do you think I paddled out for another..? In fact I ended up surfing for another half an hour or so before my shoulders turned to jelly and I came in.
Standing on the beach, looking back out right at that instant, an onshore breeze came up and the waves died down. I had been blessed by the last couple of hours. As I walked up to the dunes I turned not just the usual once, but three times to again take in what a ‘perfect surf’ I had.
Two foot or ten foot the feeling you get is just as awesome.
One for the memories.
Nice one 👍
Can’t wait to get a taste