Every surfers dream is to get barrelled. A tube to a surfer is what cocaine is to drugs. Bali has plenty of opportunity to live that dream. The sharp coral reefs allow hollow sections galore but with these opportunities come plenty of risk. Come off at the wrong time and you will have regrets. Lembongan Island provided me with the dream not only once but twice in two days.
The first was late in the afternoon at a wave called ‘Playgrounds’. Although the name suggests otherwise when a decent size swell hits there still comes the risk. It was late in the afternoon and the sun was beginning it’s descent to the horizon over the clear waters of the Lombok Strait. A beautiful time to surf and a great way to end a day.
The surf was not huge but certainly big enough the get the blood running. I had got a few quick ‘cover ups’ but was still burning for that ultimate surfers dream. Then it came. I saw a bump at the outer point which was an indicator that a set would hit ‘Playgrounds’ in about one minute so I moved into position. It was the biggest set of the afternoon. As I started paddling the water drew off the reef and I could see through the water to the threatening shallow coral reef below. No time even for a bottom turn I took off directly into a wide hollow section. At first the roof of the wave was brushing my head and I thought I was gone but then the barrel just opened up and everything seemed to go silent and turn slow motion The sun was shinning through the back of the wave and it lit up the barrel beautifully and after what seemed an eternity spat me out with great gusto. The wave continued on but I was so stoked with the barrel I just kicked out off the wave in awe of what had just happened.
The second time it was the next morning at another Lembongan break named ‘Lacerations’. The name says it all. Come off here and you will be donating skin grafts to its insanely sharp coral reef. The wave when on is a barrel machine. The hurdle is the Indo ‘professionals’ controlling the small take off area. I always get chatting to them so if I’m lucky they allow me a chance to get that dream barrel. I had paddled out at first light and had got a few great waves but it wasn’t till the end of my session that the tide allowed for the barrels to appear. My chance came as I was planning on taking the next one in and as I had been sitting for a while the local Lembongan boys waved me onto a gem wave approaching. The motivation is there as you don’t want to waste the opportunity they have given you but if you fail you will also be the laughing stock of the group.
I paddled hard and again saw the danger below as I took off. Here you take off sideways directly into the wave and are mostly almost guaranteed a barrel if done correctly. Unlike the one at ‘Playgrounds’ I was in a fast intense screaming tube. Fully inserted I raced through, my board fins just above the reef and once again was spat out with a huge spray pushing me out with speed. Once again I had achieved the ‘dream’ and paddled back to the boat thanking the Indonesia gods, and of course the locals boys. Living the dream.
‘Only a surfer knows the feeling’
