Month: April 2018

Is it possible to have the perfect surf? You need to factor in size, weather, water temp, the crowd, amount of waves. I think possibly thereโ€™s different types of perfect sessions. Today, Monday April 9th, was a hot 34 degree Autumn day. It didnโ€™t really even matter how the waves were as such a sunny […]

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Every surfer has experienced at least one frightening yet memorable wipeout where they were held down for let’s say longer than they would have preferred. I know I’ve had plenty but this particular one in Bali scared the shit out of me and is easily up with my top ones. We had hired a local […]

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