The anticipation starts from the moment you decide that you’re going on a surf trip. It may be for a day, it may be for a week, it could be this weekend, it could be next month, you may go north, may go south, you may go with mates, your wife or just by yourself, it doesn’t matter. All that matters at this point is that you are going on a surf trip.
On this particular occasion, my wife and I made the call a week before leaving. A week of swell forecasts, weather maps, surf videos, surf mags and counting down the days. The night before the anticipation is high and a typical restless pre-surf trip night’s sleep is ahead. The alarm sounds, a quick reality check as to why im getting up at 4am and im instantly awake with excitement. Ten weet-bix and a can of redbull and im ready for the 3hr drive north to my destination.
Arriving somewhere on our mid north coast we are welcomed by seclusion as we enter the forest dodging kangaroos and a maze of potholes. As we arrive at the carpark the anticipation builds to its peak. Strolling through the lush green forest and I enter ‘that moment’. That moment where you start to picture the waves you are about to find, uncrowded perfection, every surfers dream. The day was an unceasingly hot August day with light offshore winds blowing. Conditions were perfect and I was praying for ‘that moment’ to become a reality. A short distance from the beach I could hear the sound of the surf and began running. As i emerge from the trees a grin grows ear to ear as I find 4-6ft perfect right-handers reeling off for about 100 meters. Oh yes, and not another person in sight.
The session defiantly called for boardies and within moments I was getting slotted with nothing on my mind but my next wave. So here I am, surfing my favourite north coast break all to myself, well so I thought…Very common around here, but still always a pleasant surprise there are often dolphins visiting. Well pod of around 20 dolphins swam around me and decided to share some waves. I have surfed with dolphins before but never with so many, so close and for so long. I could almost touch them. I watched outside as they shot out the back of the waves and I dodged them as I paddled back out as they surfed the awesome waves. At one stage all I could do is sit and watch in amazement letting perfect empty waves go past me as these beautiful creatures surfed their favourite break. What a privilege. After a long while they moved on and I returned to the slots.
This session had given me plenty of perfect waves and there were more to be had, however, I was at that stage where my arms were like jelly and the last three waves I called my ‘last wave in’…On my final real last wave I took a soul arch stance and rode it down the line just taking in the beauty of this wonderful place. I came in, stood on the beach, reminiscing on my session, day one of my three-day trip and I could have gone home right then fully satisfied. As it was I had to endure these waves for another two days…
You may not always score waves like this, you may not always surf with dolphins, but every surf trip is sure to deliver something special. Remember its all about the adventure and misadventure and if you happen to be there when ‘that moment’ becomes a reality, well, only a surfer knows the feeling…
The anticipation starts from the moment you decide that you’re going on a surf trip. It may be for a day, it may be for a week, it could be this weekend, it could be next month, you may go north, may go south, you may go with mates, your wife or just by yourself, it doesn’t matter. All that matters at this point is that you are going on a surf trip.
On this particular occasion, my wife and I made the call a week before leaving. A week of swell forecasts, weather maps, surf videos, surf mags and counting down the days. The night before the anticipation is high and a typical restless pre-surf trip night’s sleep is ahead. The alarm sounds, a quick reality check as to why im getting up at 4am and im instantly awake with excitement. Ten weet-bix and a can of redbull and im ready for the 3hr drive north to my destination.
Arriving somewhere on our mid north coast we are welcomed by seclusion as we enter the forest dodging kangaroos and a maze of potholes. As we arrive at the carpark the anticipation builds to its peak. Strolling through the lush green forest and I enter ‘that moment’. That moment where you start to picture the waves you are about to find, uncrowded perfection, every surfers dream. The day was an unceasingly hot August day with light offshore winds blowing. Conditions were perfect and I was praying for ‘that moment’ to become a reality. A short distance from the beach I could hear the sound of the surf and began running. As i emerge from the trees a grin grows ear to ear as I find 4-6ft perfect right-handers reeling off for about 100 meters. Oh yes, and not another person in sight.
The session defiantly called for boardies and within moments I was getting slotted with nothing on my mind but my next wave. So here I am, surfing my favourite north coast break all to myself, well so I thought…Very common around here, but still always a pleasant surprise there are often dolphins visiting. Well pod of around 20 dolphins swam around me and decided to share some waves. I have surfed with dolphins before but never with so many, so close and for so long. I could almost touch them. I watched outside as they shot out the back of the waves and I dodged them as I paddled back out as they surfed the awesome waves. At one stage all I could do is sit and watch in amazement letting perfect empty waves go past me as these beautiful creatures surfed their favourite break. What a privilege. After a long while they moved on and I returned to the slots.
This session had given me plenty of perfect waves and there were more to be had, however, I was at that stage where my arms were like jelly and the last three waves I called my ‘last wave in’…On my final real last wave I took a soul arch stance and rode it down the line just taking in the beauty of this wonderful place. I came in, stood on the beach, reminiscing on my session, day one of my three-day trip and I could have gone home right then fully satisfied. As it was I had to endure these waves for another two days…
You may not always score waves like this, you may not always surf with dolphins, but every surf trip is sure to deliver something special, and if you happen to be there when ‘that moment’ becomes a reality, well, only a surfer knows the feeling…
